Resilicone a shower: what the process looks like

Resiliconing is the job of cutting out silicone that has failed and replacing it with a fresh seal. It sounds simple, and in principle it is. But most of the effort, and most of the difference between a repair that lasts and one that does not, is in the preparation rather than the application.

Before any work starts

The first step is looking at the shower as a whole. Where is the silicone failing? Is it just the bottom run along the tray, or all the internal corners and the joint at the screen? Are there signs that water has gone behind the tiles? Any of those findings affects the plan, so it is worth settling them before cutting anything.

Step by step

1. Clear the area and protect the tray, screen and fittings.
2. Cut and peel the old silicone out along its full length, using blades and removal tools designed not to scratch tiles or acrylic.
3. Remove the residue left on the tile and tray edges. A thin film is enough to stop the new silicone bonding.
4. Clean the joint with a solvent or suitable cleaner and let it dry fully.
5. Check the joint depth and condition. Damaged grout or open gaps are dealt with at this point.
6. Mask either side of the joint with tape for crisp, even lines.
7. Apply a bathroom-rated, mould-resistant silicone in a continuous bead.
8. Tool the bead to press it into the joint and leave a smooth concave finish.
9. Remove the tape straight away, while the silicone is still wet.
10. Leave to cure for the time stated on the product before the shower is used.

Why removal gets most of the time

New silicone sticks to clean, dry, bare surfaces. It does not stick well to old silicone, soap scum, body oils or damp. Stripping the old bead completely and degreasing the joint takes longer than gunning in the new one, and it is where corners are most often cut.

If a resilicone fails within months, poor preparation is usually the reason. Mould returning in a few weeks tends to mean the joint was damp or the old silicone was not fully removed.

How long does it take?

A standard shower can usually be done in a few hours, plus the cure time. Larger showers, or those with a lot of joints or old, stubborn silicone, will take longer. Drying time is a real constraint, so if the area has been used recently, the joint may need time to dry fully before the new bead goes in.

Cure time and aftercare

Most bathroom silicones skin over within an hour or so but take longer to reach full strength, commonly around a day. Keep the area dry for that period. After that:

• Wipe the shower down and run the exhaust fan after use
• Use non-abrasive cleaners and avoid scouring pads on the silicone
• Squeegee or wipe the corners where water pools
• Keep an eye on the bead for the first few weeks for any lifting

Doing it yourself

A single wall-to-floor run is a reasonable DIY job. A tidy bead takes practice, and masking tape is your friend. A whole shower, with several corners and long runs, is more demanding, mainly because of the removal work and the need for steady, clean lines. If you want to try, buy a quality bathroom silicone, a removal tool and a solvent rather than the cheapest option.

If there is any sign of moisture behind the tiles, or the shower has been leaking, have it looked at by a professional first. Sealing in damp is the quickest way to a failed job.